Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and travelers equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, Unesco honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a select group of world cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it enters a international community of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The honor "stands as proof of its profound gastronomic legacy and lively gastronomic culture," according to a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this time-honored city comes as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, lively, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the limelight for what has always shaped its heart: an profound passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a constant dialogue from waking up until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and raised to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – little-known gems that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in kulhads, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and demanding. The vendor whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but express concern that their children do not want to take up the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will encourage more people globally to explore these tales and travel to the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
